le blog de tranny

yummykins mcderish

Month: October, 2010

sunday, monday, tuesday

Wednesday: oops, I’d planned on eating cereal for dinner tonight but ended up eating a late dinner at Ragazza instead with Lolo. The pork belly with Mission figs, farro and arugula (?) was amazing, but the stuffed sardines with breadcrumbs and the amatriciana pizza were too salty, even for me. The amatriciana pizza was topped with tomato, pancetta, chilies, Pecorino, oregano and an egg. Sad to say, the crust was actually too thin for my liking in the middle and perhaps even slightly overcooked ? such that the pizza bore a striking resemblance to flatbread, and not in a good way. Actually I know the pizza was overcooked, because the egg certainly was. Ragazza is not the new Pizzaiolo. It is quite affordable though, I must say.

ANYWAY..

As is evident in this next series of photos, I’ve been treating myself very well these last few days. I wanted to try one of the restaurants on the Bib Gourmand list this past weekend so P and I made resies for Kokkari Estiatorio on Sunday. We started off our meal with glasses of the 2008 Duckhorn decoy cabernet sauvignon and the crispy smelts with garlic-potato skordalia and lemon, the grilled octopus with lemon, oregano and olive oil, and the pan-fried Kefalograviera cheese with lemon and oregano. All the apps were pretty stellar — surprisingly, I was least blown away by the fried smelts, but I’d shove any of these things into my pie hole again any ol’ time.


The grilled octopus was SUPER NOMZ — very nicely flavored and with an amazing texture that I wasn’t expecting. It was doughy with just the right amount of chew — the closest thing I can think of to compare it to is a very dense fish like a halibut steak, but it’s a pretty unique texture really.

Aside from having to listen to some Stanfurd alums at the table next to us suck their own dicks, the ambiance of the restaurant was extremely pleasant, romantic even.

I ordered one of the specials, which was a goat stew with feta, artichokes, “tomato compote” and orzo. It was bursting with flavor. The goat meat was incredibly tender and almost too copious in the dish. I found myself almost wishing for more artichoke and orzo, but at least I definitely can’t accuse them of skimping on the meat! This was a really great dish.

Paul ordered the oven-roasted sea bass with potatoes, tomatoes and olives. The fish was succulent yet delicately flavored. I immediately swooped in on the fish head with my fork thinking that there would be some delicious cheeks to be had but alas, there were none to be found. A minor complaint but still, am I retarded (do sea bass not have cheeks?), or did someone steal our fish cheeks?

At $130 total the meal did not seem the fit to criteria for a Bib Gourmand pick, i.e. “For $40 or less, you can enjoy two courses and a glass of wine or dessert.” Maybe it’s possible to spend $40 each but it seems like kind of stretch. Regardless, I was happy to pay that much for a truly lovely meal. I’d rather pay more and have few complaints than pay less and have many.

~

On Monday, C, J and I had girlz night at Zero Zero, which we’d been wanting to try forever. Caro and Jane were already pretty wasted by the time I met them at Bloodhound before our reservation, so the meal was a real hoot!

We started off with a round of Ninth Wards, which had Bulleit bourbon, Velvet Falernum, St.Germain, lime and Peychaud bitters in them. Tho lux.

For starters, we ordered the yellowfin tuna with shaved raw artichoke, scallion radish and meyer lemon, the avocado bruschetta with pickled onion and house cured lardo, and the local squid cooked on the plancha with butter beans, peperonata and salsa verde.

The tuna appetizer was a very tasty flavor combination. I don’t feel like it was the freshest tuna I’ve ever had, but it definitely wasn’t not fresh. In my search for sushi in this city I’ve come to realize how picky I am with regard to the quality of sushi grade fish. Or at least I seem to be pickier than a lot of Yelpers out there.

The bruschetta was tasty and kind of reminded me of the avocado toast at Pizzaiolo. I definitely wish there had been more lardo though. Less avocado, more lardo. Pretty solid for $4.50 but I guess nothing special.

The squid was perfect. We all thought so.


I’m definitely coming back to try the trivella with cauliflower and blue crab… sounds amazing!

The bucatini with uni butter was so delicious and decadent. It was srsly like mac ‘n cheese, only better. It blew my mind!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The pici with short rib ragu was delish, but also kind of watery in a way.


We got the Geary Pizza, which had Manila clams, tomato sauce, garlic, bacon, pecorino, parsley and Calabrian chile. The combination of the Manila clams and bacon was kind of intense. I prefer the Pizzaiolo version with just clams and aioli. The crust on the Geary was spot on though — not too burnt like it can sometimes be at Pizzaiolo.

After our first round of cocktails we delved into some of the wines they have on tap. We had a carafe of the 2007 Alexander Valley sangiovese followed by a carafe of the 2007 Sonoma barbera. One of us couldn’t resist getting dessert, which at Zero Zero means Build-Your-Own-Sundae.

I found the ricotta doughnut enticing but was disappointed at the topping options for pairing it with. Where the fruit at? A berry compote would’ve been divine.

Jane:

Meh. The soft serve was flavored quite subtly — too subtly for the taste of my dining companions.

Look, a shit ton of lint on my glass. WTF?

It’s relief to have finally found a place that can dish up some good Italian in the same vein as the Pizzaiolo we so love and miss. We ladies really know how to treat ourselves on a night out. What a gorgeous gorging sesh.

~

I’d been wanting to try Super Duper for a few weeks now. The concept of a simple, In ‘n Out style menu with organic, good quality ingredients really appealed to me. No-No and P are always down for a good boygeh, so of course they were down.

Racer 5 on tap? Well, okay!




Not too shabby…

see ya, chez p.

Oh mon dieu! Chez Panisse lost it’s Michelin star today! I wonder what Alice is thinking right now… she’s probably remembering the good times, like when she helped Werner Herzog cook his own shoe in the Chez Panisse kitchen. LOLZ! <3 WH

Edit: AW responds

easy A(zn)

Umami, starch, and loads of leftovers. These are a few of my favorite things. And when you add the fact that the following meals are both easy to make and fairly cheap, well, shit.

Pad Thai

These photos are from when I was back at the Oakland house. The recipe is from Mark Bittman with a few modifications. The ingredients list is really quite simple and doesn’t really necessitate a trip to the asian supermarket, though how could you pass up frozen shrimp for $4.50 a lb at Koreana Plaza? Oh Koreana, it’s been too long. You need dried flat rice noodles (aka “rice stick”), a few eggs (Bittman says 3 for 4 servings), peeled deveined shrimp, some minced garlic to cook with the shrimp, a package of extra-firm tofu, a few green onions, some bean sprouts, fish sauce, tamarind paste or ketchup (I opted for the latter since I had it on hand, but I feel like many Thai places do anyway), white granulated sugar, and then chopped peanuts, cilantro, green chiles and lime for garnish.

Ryan and I were feeling a bit more cheap-o than usual, so we decided to pick peanuts out of his TJ’s trail mix instead of buying them. THAT’S HOW WE DO IT IN OAKTOWN.

Now I think the trick to keeping the noodles from getting too soggy is to prepare them the way MB recommends: putting the noodles into a bowl and then adding boiling water to cover them. Soaking them in this manner (for at least 15 minutes) cooks them just the right amount.

This is perhaps the most annoying step of the process — patting the tofu dry. As you can see, I was feeling a little artistic at the time. When you’ve sufficiently dried the tofu (I tend to half-ass it), cut the tofu into small cubes.

Making the egg crepe is perhaps the trickiest part, though I didn’t really find it to be tricky at all. Basically you beat 3-4 eggs (depending on the egg to noodle ratio you’re aiming for) and then add them to a pan that is coated with hot oil (canola, peanut, or other neutral). Then you swirl it as if you were Julia Child making an omelette (zomg have you ever actually seen a video clip of Julia Child? Meryl Streep really nailed it..) but you want the egg to coat the pan in a thin layer. Use a spatula to gently scrape off the white curd that forms on the top of crepe. I’d say the main thing is making sure the surface area of your pan is large enough to get a thin spread. I used a wok.


When it’s just set remove the crepe and cut it into strips. Technique-wise I’d say it’s easiest to cut the crepe in half and chiffonade that bitch.

Clean off the wok and then saute the shrimp over high heat with some oil and the garlic. Season with s&p. Cook for about two minutes or until the shrimp turns pink. Remove the shrimp and set aside. Add the tofu, chopped green onion and bean sprouts to the wok and saute for a few minutes, then remove from the pan and set aside.

Add your drained rice stick, sliced egg crepe, a few tablespoons of fish sauce (I’d start off with less rather than more as you can add to taste) and equal parts ketchup and sugar, a few teaspoons each. Saute, stirring occasionally, until heated through and mixed well. Taste the noodles so you can adjust the fish sauce, sugar and ketchup components for flavor. I ended up having to add more of everything, for a still very subtly-flavored end product. Remove from the heat.

The secret ingredient. :D

Don’t forget the garnishes!

The resulting dish was very light and paired excellently with chili garlic paste and beer.

Fried Rice with Leeks, Brown Mushrooms, Zucchini and Fried Tofu
This is more of a suggestion than a recipe. I often use leeks in lieu of scallions in fried rice because I so often have one leftover from some other pasta or egg dish I made earlier in the week. Fried rice is just such an awesome “leftover ingredient” dish, and way easier to execute than a frittata.

I’m by no means an expert at deep-frying, but deep frying tofu is pretty straightforward: no battering required; just heat a saucepan filled a quarter inch deep with frying oil and then fry the tofu on both sides, seasoning each side with salt. (For another tyte fried tofu recipe, go here.) Just don’t be a retard like me and use a shallow pan with no lid, because then scalding hot oil will spray at you constantly while the tofu is frying! In retrospect I would’ve used my le creuset round french oven for this part of the process.

While I was deep-frying the tofu, I sauteed the leek, minced garlic, brown mushrooms (I can’t remember if I used cremini or shiitake last time), and zucchini in some oil. I seasoned it with soy sauce, black pepper and crushed red chili flakes. When the vegetables were cooked through I transferred them to a plate and set them aside. Then I heated up some canola oil flavored with a bit of sesame oil until it was pretty hot, and then added cooked jasmine rice which I fried on high heat, flipping and stirring occasionally, for like 4-5 minutes (you know, just to get the rice kind of crispy) and seasoned the rice with soy sauce and Maggi.
Multiple white people (a dad and a housemate) have expressed difficulties with executing the scrambled egg part of fried rice to me, so I guess it’s worth noting here. My friend L-T from Cambridge would scramble the eggs separately and then add them back to the fried rice at the end. I prefer the method that doesn’t require dirtying another dish: push the rice to one side of the pan and then add a few beaten eggs, then scramble the eggs until just cooked through before combining them with the rice.

Then I added back the tofu and vegetables back to the egg and rice mixture and cooked the fried rice for another few minutes just to heat through, seasoning with more Maggi to taste. Mmmmm, msg.

visions of absinthe

My first visit to Absinthe left me hungry (and thirsty) for more! Other people in my life with strong opinions about food (read: C and J) don’t seem to be as stoked on Absinthe as I am, but I guess I’m just a sucker for brasserie fare.

You got dem Charlotte Gainsbourg eyebrows.

I started off with a “French 75″: gin, lemon juice and simple syrup topped off with champagne. I’d been drooling over the menu prior to our arrival and was drooling over the spread at the table next to us, where two girls, not too much unlike ourselves, were going all out. As the drunk munchies began to set in we decided to order some snacks for the table, namely:

The french fries with smoky tomato ketchup and sweet onion aioli that smelled SO GOOD from the table next to us. I love french fries like these – thin, the right amount of crunch, the right amount of oil, the right amount of salt. They were just right! Maybe I just wanted to love Absinthe.

We also got the heirloom tomato and melon salad with hearts of palm, Persian feta, wild arugula and balsamic. Killer combination (duh everyone’s doing it) and nicely executed. I didn’t dive into the food at Absinthe expecting or wanting super innovative dishes. It’s the promise of comforting and well-executed French favorites that sparked my interest and that will draw me back again soon. I guess I’ve come to realize that all it really takes for me to be really into a place is for it to have fresh oysters, French onion soup, and nice cocktails.

On my short-list of things to order next time: pork meatballs, soupe a l’oignon, beef tartare, country pâté, ricotta cannelloni, and the Absinthe hamburger with sauteed mushrooms, gruyere, and a FRIED EGG. HOT DAYYUM, it’s like someone hacked into my dreamz. Maybe this guy? They’ve got a croque monsieur/madame and steak frites on the lunch menu too. Oh yez. Let this post be a reminder to myself that all of these treasures await me a mere 15 minute walk away!

For the second round I had the “galapagos”: kaffir-lime leaf muddled in pepper syrup, Barsol Pisco, lemon-lime juice and a splash of grapefruit juice. Win! The lady had oh erm, I dunno, a FACE. Kekekekeke.

On a semi-related note, the Michelin Guide SF Bib Gourmand picks for this year got me thinking about where I want to eat this weekend. I’ll either be eating marrow-stuffed squid, crispy smelts and grilled octopus or squid ink linguine with lobster bolognese (and cockscombs! – the picture totally creeps me out D: ). Wish me luck!

saturday fatter day

One moment I was sitting in Alamo Square bitching about how badly I wanted some oysters and martinis à la Mad Men, the next I was walking down Divis with Caro to Health Haven and New Star Ell Liquor to pick up fixin’s for our very own DIY happy hour.

Caro wanted to try making Blood and Sands. I believe the recipe she followed was roughly: equal parts scotch, cherry brandy, sweet vermouth and orange juice. Maybe we agreed on less vermouth for the second round. I can’t really remember; this was a few weeks ago.

Meanwhile I made us some grilled cheese sandwiches: Columbus cured pork loin (from Berkeley Bowl), extra sharp cheddar and pepperoncinis on sourdough – a solid combination.

I won’t go into the details of how to make a grilled cheese sandwich suffice it to say I like buttering both sides of the bread liberally before throwing it on the pan. I also burnt the bread a little, but that’s okay.

weekend in Napa!

The weekend before last Paul and I celebrated our 1 year anniversary by taking a long weekend in Napa. I’m a wineau (wine-o?) now! (Not really, but I’m working on it.) It was the first time visiting Napa for both of us, which is crazy because it’s so close.

We stayed at the Old World Inn in Napa. Our room came equipped with skylights, a flat screen tv, surround sound, and it’s own private outdoor hot tub. The B&B ended up being way lovelier than I was expecting — not at all jank but actually extremely comfortable and charming. Well-located too — the city center is a short bike ride away!

We had some time to kill in Yountville before our reservation at Bouchon so we figured what the hell, why not join all the bros at Domaine Chandon?




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notes on school lunch menus

Several posts from around the internet last week got me thinking about school lunch programs. Dorie Greenspan and La Tartine Gourmande come to mind. From my own memory I can conjure up images of the chalupa, chicken fingers, fruit in syrup and square pizza (with cookie-cutter edges) they used to serve for lunch at my elementary school. From the looks of this awesome blog called Fed Up With School Lunch, the American school lunch spread hasn’t become much more sophisticated in the past 15 years. Naturally I was led to wonder what public schools in different parts of the world serve their students for lunch. Luckily I can always count on Kitchen Daily to answer questions of this nature (global in scope) that I may have, with a nifty slideshow.

So the state of American school lunch programs is dismal. I can only hope that I will be able to force-feed my child the brown bag items of my choosing. I did not need help from other bloggers to know that France would be the obvious paradigm for school lunch programs on the other end of the spectrum. Everyone always talks about how great French children have it (gastronomically), so I pressed myself to think of another strong culinary tradition that might trickle its way down into the lunchtime fare of school children. Naturally I thought of the Japanese –- what are they feeding their schoolchildren? I was lucky enough to find this blog, written by an American teaching abroad in Japan. Savory soups, fresh fruit, sashimi –- foods I would love to eat on any occasion! It turns out the Japanese school lunch spread is varied and nutritious. I also discovered that Japanese schoolchildren are not only eating well, they are eating whale.

I started thinking about the school lunch movements that have taken root in America since I was in elementary school. Edible Schoolyard is an obvious one. I checked out the website and was actually blown away. Alice is teaching these kids how to make frittatas and vinaigrette from scratch? These are things I learned how to make, like, three years ago. Really makes you envy the culinary education some kids are getting. Kids in France are eating roast beef and bouillabaisse for lunch and receiving private lessons from professional chefs. Alice’s kids are growing their own vegetables and making their own ragouts and fried rice. I gotta say, I pat myself on the back on days that I bring steak and asparagus, fish stew and a salad, or fried tofu, leek and mushroom fried rice to work for lunch, but apparently kids at MLK, Jr. Middle School in Berkeley are doing the same, as part of their lesson plan. And I have to be honest – usually I just have a sandwich for lunch. Or worse, I buy a sandwich.

That’s when I realized — these kids already have a taste and mind for food that is on par with mine, and they probably have a greater appreciation for the midday meal than I do! Now, using myself as an example, I can conclude that an appreciation and creativity for food can and should be developed at an early age. The eating habits children develop in school will have a lasting impact on their culinary self-sufficiency and the food choices they make later in life, as my processed primary school lunches presumably played a factor in my not really becoming adventurous in food until just about when I left my teens (and I believe for 20th my birthday we did champagne and McDonald’s?), or my eating leftover Zachary’s pizza for breakfast on a regular basis.

What if kids were put in charge of designing their own school lunch menus? I wonder if the end result would look something like this (heh heh).

One thing that I will take a stance on is putting an end to the 30 minute lunch period. I can’t count the times that, after not booking it quite fast enough to the cafeteria in middle school, I would end up devouring a chicken chimichanga or Little Caesar’s pizza while waiting to pay. My dessert, a package of tropical Skittles, would be consumed at my desk during my next class. Not cool.

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