le blog de tranny

I came to Portland because we had planned on a girls only getaway weekend, because I’d been told I’d like it there. I’d been itching to check out the hipster mecca of the Pacific NW for years now, with its peaceful greenery, ample breweries, delicious coffee, and burgeoning food (cart) scene.

In the end, I found that the things I love to do most in Portland are the things that don’t set it apart from SF. I like the boozy brunches, snobby cocktail joints and casual yet upscale new American restos. SF arguably has more of each. Yet at the same time, I found Portland to be a calmer, cleaner city than SF, refreshingly so. A city in which I could feel comfortable walking the streets at all hours of the night, rather than having to worry about being pistol-whipped or stepping in human feces. A city in which the baristas are cute *and* friendly, and where cars will stop to let you jaywalk in front of them rather than laying on their horn and charging right at you.

A city that’s incredibly quiet, even at the hippest establishments, perhaps because they are filled with white people (Charlotte from SATC says WASPs don’t yell?). Yes, Portland is a shockingly white city, which was kind of disarming to our 5/6ths asian crew. In the Pearl District, we would literally traverse several city blocks, sit in certain restaurants for over an hour, without seeing a single non-white person. Not saying that’s a bad thing but very curious indeed.

The hype around places like Voodoo Donuts, Powell’s Books, Kenny and Zuke’s, Apizza Scholls and Stumptown is palpable, but we decided as a group to not bother with the first two, namely because, (1) waiting in line for donuts is stupid and on the rare occasion that I crave a donut, I want it to be simple and straightforward, not laden with fruit loops or shaped like a penis, and (2) seeing Powell’s Books (which was right next to our hotel) from the outside was good enough for me. We steered clear of Kenny and Zuke’s, also next to the hotel, as Jane mentioned that the food there is “gross.”

[We stayed at the Ace.]

* Day 1 – The Pearl District *

There was no shortage of recommendations for coffee shops to check out in Portland. Stumptown is perhaps the most well-known, but I’d also been told to go to Heart, and Barista came very highly recommended by the biggest coffee geek we know. I’ve only recently begun to appreciate the role the barista plays in producing a good cup of coffee. Coffee from the best roaster, if burned, tastes like shit. Barista boasted both talented baristas and a carefully curated selection of espresso and coffee from the likes of Stumptown, Heart and Intelligentsia. (They have tastings every Monday to figure out their line-up.) It was just what we needed to kick off our vacation.

My Nicaraguan french press from Intelligentsia.

The first time we went to Barista, Jane ordered a delicious iced coffee made from a Guatemalan roast from Heart. Paired with a little soy milk it was ridiculously good. So good that on our last day in Portland the three of us came back and all ordered it.

Next it was time for Deschutes Brewery, which Jane had been raving about since her last trip to Portland. I have to say, it was definitely one of the highlights of our weekend. We each started off with a sampler and some food, followed by another round of oh I don’t remember. I think of the beers we ordered Cascade and Green Lakes were my favorites. I also ordered the most amazing, succulent elk burger. Who knew?! It was possibly the best thing I ate on the trip. I can’t stop thinking about it.

[elk burger with gruyere, roasted shallot and thyme mayo, brioche bun]

After a hazy shopping experience and getting acquainted with our hotel room, we ventured out again to Teardrop Lounge, a cocktail bar well-loved by Chowhounders and recommended by our server at Deschutes. We were warned that the bartenders there would be “snobby” but I guess I don’t give a damn as long as they can make me an interesting cocktail. It’s not like I’m going to order a pineapple vodka or some shit.

An interesting interior…

Jane and I were quite fixated on this useful glossary of cocktail terms. “Nopa should have something like this,” said she. Are you there, Nopa? It’s me, Tranny.

Unfinished Business: gin, Cocchi Americano, Bonal gentian aperitif, Rocky’s bitters, agave nectar, absinthe.

We finished off the day with dinner at Clyde Common.

Communal tables seem to be the trend in Portland.

[East of Eden: gin, lemon, egg whites, gewurztraminer reduction, elderflower]

I started off with the fideos, which I liked and Jane loved. Note to self: never order dishes drenched in squid ink if wearing a newly purchased white blouse.

[fideos, scallops, squid, Italian sausage, squid ink vinaigrette, aioli]

My entree made for a great picture, but I have to say that the trout tasted a bit too earthy for me. Note to self: inquire as to the type of trout upon ordering, only order ocean trout, never river trout.

[prosciutto wrapped trout, lemon, greens, fried egg, maitake]

I am realizing now that I have too many photos for one post…
Days 2-3 here.