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Tag: europe

the full english: then, now, and as it should be

The full English breakfast is probably the only food I discovered while living in the UK that endeared me in the slightest to British cuisine. This is probably unfair; I can’t base my opinion of an entire country’s cuisine on dining hall and pub offerings and I’ve never been to the Fat Duck so… yeah, I’m biased. I’ll just reiterate what I’ve said many times before, that it is my understanding that in the UK (or at least, in Cambridge), it is quite difficult to find decent British fare for a reasonable price. Not to mention that every restaurant is a chain and every entrée is served with chipped potatoes. (Example: Brown’s restaurant – kind of decent… but overpriced and A CHAIN.) The exception to this rule is of course, English breakfast, which should really be called brunch. I mean, what a deal! I could eat this at 11 and not be hungry again til 7 (which is remarkable for me).

Anyone who’s been to Cambridge knows about the full English at Copper Kettle on King’s Parade. I mean, the vegetarian full English at this tourist trap could always usually satisfy me (note: the non-vegetarian full English here is horrifying – the sausages taste like they’re filled with sawdust) but they sometimes overcook the eggs and more generally, kind of rip you off. With the regular full English you get a tomato, an egg, bacon, sausage, beans, fried toast and toast. No mushrooms and no black pudding. With the veggie full English you get a few mushrooms, a tomato, two eggs, beans, chips, fried toast and toast. CHIPS?! Ugh so weak. I always substituted the chips for an extra tomato (stingy bastards).

For a mere 50p more one can just get the full English at Martin’s Coffee House, located right next to the Judge on Trumpington Road. Far superior and actually legit full English. Succulent sausages, runny eggs, black pudding (if you’re into that), and when you order the full English, you get a free coffee!

But enough reviewing of restaurants located in places I don’t live anymore. Let’s talk the present. Let’s talk the Bay Area. I don’t know of any breakers joints around here serving up the full English, and a cursory search on Yelp doesn’t yield any promising leads. Up until two or three weeks ago, it had been over a year since I’d indulged in this greasy orgy of pork, carbs and cholesterol. Two Sundays ago I woke up ravenously hungry after a night of scant eat and ample drink. Seeing as my IPhone was next to the bed I decided to check Facebook, only to see a friend’s status update detailing how he’d just finished eating a glorious English breakfast prepared for him by our friend Grisha. I was struck with a jealousy and craving so violent that I immediately drove myself to Berkeley Bowl to get the ingredients for an English breakers of my own.

Brace yourself for a jolly good ol’ food pornorific time!

There was no cumberland or other vaguely British style pork sausage to be found at BB. The closest thing they had was a spicy Italian pork sausage. Lame. Also, I believe field mushrooms are supposed to be the standard in the UK but I got some brown ones instead. And, being the unadventurous American I am, I decided to forgo the black pudding (and I doubt BB has it anyway).

My method of cooking the sausage, tomatoes (scored, drizzled in olive oil and seasoned with s&p) and mushrooms (stems cut off, drizzled in olive oil and seasoned with s&p) was with the broiler, as suggested to me by Jamie Oliver. This was kind of a fail for two reasons. First, the tomatoes didn’t quite brown on top as I would’ve liked them to. Second, the Pyrex exploded in the oven (!!!). Apparently this happens sometimes, and not necessarily by any fault of the user. (Trust me, there was no thermal shock involved. But according to the above link, Pyrex and other tempered glass can be weakened by microscopic scratches in the surface caused by normal use.) I’m just glad it exploded in the oven and not in my face. Needless to say, I will not be cooking with Pyrex ever again and neither should you. And before you say “PIX OR IT DIDN’T HAPPEN” let me tell you that I did take photos of the debris, but my memory card was corrupted so I lost them :( . Note however that there were two sausages originally but that Ryan and I each have only half a sausage in the final photos. That’s because the other sausage was still in the Pyrex when it exploded and we were afraid of swallowing shards of glass so we threw it away. Yayy!!!!!!

Bacon fry.

The final product:

So that was all fine. Open a can, fry up some stuff, broil some other stuff and you have yourself a traditional English feast! I had a feeling that a little more effort could turn this soggy spread into something truly special. Grisha (aka Tomatoface) showed me way when I took him up on his offer to cook me English breakfast this past Sunday.

You see, olive oil, s&p shouldn’t be the name of game. The name of the game should be bacon fat… rendered in a cast iron skillet. Better, two cast iron skillets going at once (Caro and I each have one)! Grisha’s never actually had a traditional English breakfast, but his take on it was a great success. He pretty much just added bacon or bacon fat to everything, used cast iron instead of the oven, and added some delicious breakfast potatoes to the spread (in lieu of mushrooms and black pudding). Maybe that’s why there’s no English breakfast to be had around here… because chefs know, as Grisha knows, that we would all rather eat bacon and leek homefries than black pudding. Amirite?



Tomatofacedown in that bacon fat fuck yeah!

Frying the tomatoes in the cast iron skillet blackened them beautifully.


Everyone at our table scarfed down their food. I nearly cleaned my plate in spite of the fact that I was recovering from the stomach flu. Yes, I was shoving English breakfast down my piehole in between bouts of explosive diarrhea, running back and forth from the kitchen to the toilet like a real champ. That’s just how dedicated I am to English breakers, and that’s just how good it was.

dutch snack food

I have this habit where whenever I travel somewhere, even if it’s not to a place particularly famous (or even, that is infamous) for its food, I make it all about the food. This is actually the context in which this blog was first created (during my year abroad in the notoriously not delicious UK where I often struggled to eat well/felt the need to bitch about it on the interweb). Perhaps the one exception to my usual rule of making every trip food-centric was when I went to Coachella with Paul about a month ago. In addition to being limited to the subpar, overpriced fare offered on the festival grounds, we often found ourselves in a state where we had fallen out of touch with our appetites, and were either too into dancing to eat, didn’t know what food was, or both.

Coachella 2010:

This talk of festivals seems like a good place to transition into the subject of this post: the trip that I took to the Netherlands about a year ago. Here’s a photo of A’dam’s Vondelpark, where according to Jasper, all the ‘festival people’ like to hang out.

Given that my companion on this trip is native Dutch, I guess it makes sense that I ended up sampling many of the more exotic local delicacies, most of which would be considered typical Dutch ‘snack food’ and some of which translated into a tummy ache :( . All of these food photos were taken in Amsterdam. We went to Rotterdam for a day too, but I guess I didn’t eat anything all that interesting there.

Here’s a vending machine dispensing different varieties of hot food. Over the course of the day, cooks in the kitchen on the other side of the wall refill the food slots. Way to cut out the middle man, Amsterdam!

Bitterballen – kind of like a croquette, but filled with tiny bits of beef and a mush made of broth, flour and butter (so Wikipedia tells me) and served with mustard. Pretty delicious if you ask me.

Of course I had to lurk on a cheese shop or two.

Here’s one for the books — haring (in English, herring), served raw and topped with raw onions. Not really visible here, but the fish has little hairs on it. I’m going to go ahead and say that this wasn’t the best thing I ate in Amsterdam, though I don’t regret trying it!

So, something I learned is that Dutch people like to eat sandwiches with sprinkles in them. The ones below are a special kind called ‘muisjes,’ eaten on top of biscuits when celebrating the birth of a baby. You (and your family, friends and coworkers) eat the blue ones if it’s a boy and the pink ones if it’s a girl. The muisjes are actually aniseed sprinkles but there are chocolate ones too, for your day-to-day sprinkle sandwich fix! They had the chocolate ones at the breakfast buffet at our hotel actually – imagine how silly it was to watch a fully grown man eat baguette topped with butter and chocolate sprinkles for breakfast!

Frikandel, one of Jasper’s favorites. It’s essentially a deep-fried meat stick made of leftover cow parts and served with tons of mayonnaise. I actually found it to be quite tasty (as mysterious meat amalgations tend to be).

See?

French fries served with satay sauce, mayonnaise, and raw onions. As one might expect, the satay sauce made this combination a bit too sweet for me.

But enough of that shit. In a much-welcomed break from all the fast food, I was lucky enough to be treated to some bona fide Dutch home-cooking courtesy of A-M, my number one homegirl in NL. This dish is called hutspot, a mash made with potatoes, carrots and bacon. So comforting and exactly what I needed.

Fin. Needless to say, I hope I’ll have the opportunity to visit the continent (and all my peeps there) sometime soon.

Spanish favorites

I’ve been thinking about the year I spent in Cambridge. Funny how I was an infinitely more prolific food blogger there, where there was a notable dearth of high caliber cuisine, than I am now in the Bay Area, (in my opinion) one of the food capitals of the world! That’s why the trip I took to Barcelona with L-T right after exams was truly a food getaway (not to mention a getaway to sun, sangria, and other visceral Spanish delights). While I was in Barca, I realized that Spanish food might very well be in my top 3 favorite cuisines of all time. Number 1 is surely Japanese.. I’m also a fan of these “new French” and “new American” strains of cuisine which basically boil down to Alice Waters’ French peasant food made using local ingredients. I guess Korean and Vietnamese food probably also deserve a place up there.. I am obsessed with asiany food after all. But you know, Spanish cuisine offers a lot of what I look for in any type of delicious meal: plentiful garlic, fresh seafood, eggs on things (both times I’ve been to Barca I’ve indulged heavily in (and never had trouble finding) egg burgers and tuna pizza with egg on it). When I’m not in Spain I’m always down for sangria and/or tapas. Anyways, here’s some highlights from the trip to Barca I took in June.

Gambas!

Gambas!

Seafood Paella

Seafood Paella

Yummy and Cheap Sangria!

Yummy and Cheap Sangria!

Fried Calamari

Fried Calamari


You know, this fried calamari could have been better and it was a tad overpriced. It was from this restaurant recommended by the NYTimes… I’ll think twice before taking a recommendation from them again.

Cafe Viena on La Ramblas

Cafe Viena on La Ramblas

The best sandwich Mark Bittman has ever eaten...

The best sandwich Mark Bittman has ever eaten...


… I ate it.

And of course, some lovely pictures from la boqueria…

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East Bay Farmer’s Markets are pretty delicious but don’t really compare I guess..

things i like: “junk food” with an egg on top

It was my summer-after-high school-Europe-trip that introduced me to this lovely culinary twist. Adding a fried egg on top can make any dish delicious. Okay, maybe that’s not entirely true, but I find that eggs work well on pastas and salads as well as junk food. Putting eggs on things like pizza and sandwiches is a very French thing to do. But I’ve seen it in Barcelona and in Britain (at the Trailer of Life in Cambridge, ha) as well. The Americans don’t do it very well though.. one time I asked for a pizza with egg on it at CPK and they brought out a pizza with scrambled eggs on the side.

(1) Egg Burger (The runnier the yoke, the better :D )
Egg Burger

(2) Tuna Pizza with Egg on it (MY FAVOURITE PIZZA EVER!)
Tuna Pizza with Egg

(3) Croque Madame ( = Croque Monsieur with a Fried Egg on it)
Croque Madame

food breaks

Man oh man. Torturing a jankety-ass, poorly constructed data set for three days straight really works up the appetite. For what, you ask? Why of course, for A FRIED CHICKEN AND HUMMUS SANDWICH MMMM MMMMMMMM

my beeessst friend

my beeessst friend

I EAT YOU NOM NOMM

I EAT YOU NOM NOMM

Btw, shout out to the Co-op for selling surprisingly delicious own brand pre-made “southern fried chicken portions.”

the many betrayals of Sainsbury’s

They say the key to being a great “everyday” sort of cook is knowing how to improvise. In AMERICA (FUCK YEAH) I never really had to scrounge for substitute ingredients unless I was doing some baked baking at 2am (which I guess happened fairly often..). Well of course that’s not the case here. The grocery store with the most variety that’s within cycling distance is Sainsbury’s. I guess I never realized before coming here that the grocery selection would be noticeably different. Even simple things, like Kraft Mac ‘n Cheese or canned soup varieties such as Chicken noodle (or something that’s not gross like pea and ham or bacon and bean) are somehow nowhere to be found. Moving here has even forced me to let go of my all-time favorite breakfast: everything bagels with full fat cream cheese topped with avocado and fresh ground pepper. Of course they occasionally have bagels at Sainsbury’s (I even bought everything bagels one time) and they have “soft cheese” which is basically cream cheese, but I mean, come on, I wasn’t kidding myself into thinking there would still be any decent avocados here in the UK once it became frozen outside. I know I’ve been spoiled in terms of fresh produce living in the Bay Area, so I was prepared to be deprived of avocado, an ingredient that made frequent appearances in both my breakfasts and lunches as an undergrad. However, there have been other times when (possibly due to my Yankee ignorance) I’ve gone to Sainsbury’s expecting/naively hoping there would be a certain essential ingredient there that wasn’t. I blame it in part on the fact that I’m living in a small town.. I’m sure the Sainsbury’s in London would blow my mind. But anyway, here I examine three stressful instances where I’ve gone to Sainsbury’s, freaked out because I was forced to find a substitute for (or simply forgo in one case) an essential ingredient, and then examine how this affected the overall final product.

(1) Canned Pumpkin Puree
Being alone in my dorm room at 6am while people in Berkeley were screaming drunk in the streets after Obama won the election was depressing. Having no American friends to give a shit about Thanksgiving with was also challenging. I was feeling pretty low the day before the big holiday and decided to cheer myself up with some homemade pumpkin pie (I was willing to run the risk that the piece of shit oven in my flat would take 3 hours to cook it properly). I went to Sainsbury’s and gathered all the ingredients for pumpkin pie and then realized four things. (1) British people don’t eat pumpkin pie; (2) British people don’t cook with pumpkin puree ever; (3) There were only two pumpkins left in the store that were half-rotting from Halloween; (4) There was no frozen pre-made pie crust in useful disposable tins. Well shit. I ran to Marks and Spencer but of course bougey British people are even less likely to appreciate my quaint American tradition of turning pumpkin into a dessert. In the end, I had to resort to pureeing the gross-looking leftover pumpkins myself. (I also ended up buying pre-made short-crust pastry because I was too lazy to make crust myself and bought a pre-made cookie crust thing just to get the pie tin it was in.) Pureeing pumpkin is actually really easy. Once you take it out of the oven, the flesh just scoops right out and is already in a pureed sort of form (no additional mashing or blending needed). The end result wasn’t too shabby. It didn’t even bother me that I was blatantly using the wrong kind of crust for the pie. (Pastry snobs would mos def disagree.) I even had some left-over pumpkin batter which I put into little souffle dishes lined with short-crust pastry to make mini pumpkin pies!

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Sharing pumpkin pie with skeptical Europeans who had never tried it before was a very special end to this stressful pumpkin pie saga. The 10 or so different people who got to taste this pie said they liked it, and I choose to believe them.

(2) Ricotta Cheese
I guess this was partly bad luck, but also partly Sainsbury’s being unreasonably poorly stocked. I was food shopping on a Saturday night a few hours before closing and getting ingredients for lasagna. And of course, the one thing that is pretty much impossible to substitute for in some way in this recipe, ricotta cheese, was out of stock. There was one available brand of ricotta on the cheese shelf (which I find retarded) and it was out. SO WEAK. I was trying to think of substitutes for ricotta cheese. I mean it doesn’t really add much flavor to the lasagna; it’s more of a texture thing. I considered putting cottage cheese in the lasagna instead (which I know sounds gross and ridiculous at first but I mean think about it; it doesn’t really seem so unreasonable considering the flavor is mild and it has a sort of fluffy mushy texture) but decided it was too runny/too risky. I also considered putting in this ricotta-spinach pasta sauce til I looked at the label and saw it was only 10% ricotta. Then I ran into an Italian acquaintance who mentioned that a lot of lasagna recipes omit the ricotta cheese and have a white (bechamel-ish) sauce instead. I was too lazy to make one myself so figured I’d just buy the sauce in a jar (see below) and put it in between the different layers instead of ricotta.

White Sauce for Lasagne

So anyway, I got home and made lasagna exactly the same way I always do (with my dad’s delicious bolognese sauce recipe), began assembling the lasagna and added the white sauce to the first layer. It seemed sort of like going against nature, to be inserting this really gross looking sauce from a jar in between all those layers of homemade goodness so I decided to not be a complete idiot and tasted the sauce before putting it on the second layer. It was disgusting. I threw the rest of the jar away and assembled the rest of the lasagna sans white sauce. Luckily there were so many other layers that the finished product contained no trace of the horrid artificial white sauce flavour. But I gotta say, I really missed the ricotta. I think the mildness and the texture really add a lot to the lasagna that we shouldn’t take for granted. Never again will I attempt to make lasagna without ricotta, even if I’ve already gone through all the work of gathering all the other ingredients. Sainsbury’s really managed to fuck me that time. I mean it’s not like the lasagna wasn’t delicious; it definitely still tasted good. But it also seemed overly.. mozzarella-y.. which tends to translate into an overly stringy/rubbery texture.

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Granted the others present said they were very pleased with the final product so maybe I’m just being overly picky. But when my daddy makes lasagna for Thanksgiving he always adds ricotta to every layer, and that lasagna is absolutely perfect. I’ve noticed a lot of shitty chain Italian places here like Bella Italia like to serve their lasagna without ricotta and with a bechamel (I’m not sure how or if this is different from the “white sauce” at Sainsbury’s.. do the lovely people of Dolmio assume shoppers are so unsophisticated that they have to refrain from using a French name on the label?), and it always makes for an inferior dining experience.

(3) Bisquick
I don’t even use Bisquick when I’m in America! And the one time I want to use it.. to make Rachel Ray’s Chicken & Dumplings recipe.. I’m in the UK, where products like Bisquick don’t exist. I tried my luck with this “Suet Dumpling Mix” I found at the Cooperative, a smaller, more expensive, “fair trade” grocery store that’s near my house. The dumplings were actually very delicious.. I added a shit ton of fresh parsley and garlic powder to the “dough” which actually ended up looking more like a batter when I dropped it in the soup (and therein lay the problem). But yeah.. about the texture. Maybe I put too much water into the dough (but I swear I followed the directions) or maybe I dropped too big of balls into the soup, but the dumplings fell apart and became a sort of dumpling mush. Still delicious, but not really dumplings. I guess this wasn’t really Sainsbury’s fault though, and probably could have been avoided had I rolled smaller balls and added less water to the mix. But I still maintain that making dumplings from Bisquick would have somehow been more straightfoward. In any case, everyone who tried this meal said it was delicious and I was very proud of it myself, in spite of the fact that the dumplings fell apart.

Chicken & Dumplings

So I guess the running tally is Sainsbury’s – 1, Michelle – 2. Will I always be able to outwit the malevolent British food gods? Maybe I should just give up now and commit to only making British recipes like kidney pie and bangers & mash and mashed peas and mush and chips and mushy mush to have the security of knowing those ingredients will always be available at Sainsbury’s. But that would be the easy away out, and I’m a fighter goddamnit.

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