the full english: then, now, and as it should be
The full English breakfast is probably the only food I discovered while living in the UK that endeared me in the slightest to British cuisine. This is probably unfair; I can’t base my opinion of an entire country’s cuisine on dining hall and pub offerings and I’ve never been to the Fat Duck so… yeah, I’m biased. I’ll just reiterate what I’ve said many times before, that it is my understanding that in the UK (or at least, in Cambridge), it is quite difficult to find decent British fare for a reasonable price. Not to mention that every restaurant is a chain and every entrée is served with chipped potatoes. (Example: Brown’s restaurant – kind of decent… but overpriced and A CHAIN.) The exception to this rule is of course, English breakfast, which should really be called brunch. I mean, what a deal! I could eat this at 11 and not be hungry again til 7 (which is remarkable for me).
Anyone who’s been to Cambridge knows about the full English at Copper Kettle on King’s Parade. I mean, the vegetarian full English at this tourist trap could always usually satisfy me (note: the non-vegetarian full English here is horrifying – the sausages taste like they’re filled with sawdust) but they sometimes overcook the eggs and more generally, kind of rip you off. With the regular full English you get a tomato, an egg, bacon, sausage, beans, fried toast and toast. No mushrooms and no black pudding. With the veggie full English you get a few mushrooms, a tomato, two eggs, beans, chips, fried toast and toast. CHIPS?! Ugh so weak. I always substituted the chips for an extra tomato (stingy bastards).

For a mere 50p more one can just get the full English at Martin’s Coffee House, located right next to the Judge on Trumpington Road. Far superior and actually legit full English. Succulent sausages, runny eggs, black pudding (if you’re into that), and when you order the full English, you get a free coffee!

But enough reviewing of restaurants located in places I don’t live anymore. Let’s talk the present. Let’s talk the Bay Area. I don’t know of any breakers joints around here serving up the full English, and a cursory search on Yelp doesn’t yield any promising leads. Up until two or three weeks ago, it had been over a year since I’d indulged in this greasy orgy of pork, carbs and cholesterol. Two Sundays ago I woke up ravenously hungry after a night of scant eat and ample drink. Seeing as my IPhone was next to the bed I decided to check Facebook, only to see a friend’s status update detailing how he’d just finished eating a glorious English breakfast prepared for him by our friend Grisha. I was struck with a jealousy and craving so violent that I immediately drove myself to Berkeley Bowl to get the ingredients for an English breakers of my own.
Brace yourself for a jolly good ol’ food pornorific time!
There was no cumberland or other vaguely British style pork sausage to be found at BB. The closest thing they had was a spicy Italian pork sausage. Lame. Also, I believe field mushrooms are supposed to be the standard in the UK but I got some brown ones instead. And, being the unadventurous American I am, I decided to forgo the black pudding (and I doubt BB has it anyway).

My method of cooking the sausage, tomatoes (scored, drizzled in olive oil and seasoned with s&p) and mushrooms (stems cut off, drizzled in olive oil and seasoned with s&p) was with the broiler, as suggested to me by Jamie Oliver. This was kind of a fail for two reasons. First, the tomatoes didn’t quite brown on top as I would’ve liked them to. Second, the Pyrex exploded in the oven (!!!). Apparently this happens sometimes, and not necessarily by any fault of the user. (Trust me, there was no thermal shock involved. But according to the above link, Pyrex and other tempered glass can be weakened by microscopic scratches in the surface caused by normal use.) I’m just glad it exploded in the oven and not in my face. Needless to say, I will not be cooking with Pyrex ever again and neither should you. And before you say “PIX OR IT DIDN’T HAPPEN” let me tell you that I did take photos of the debris, but my memory card was corrupted so I lost them
. Note however that there were two sausages originally but that Ryan and I each have only half a sausage in the final photos. That’s because the other sausage was still in the Pyrex when it exploded and we were afraid of swallowing shards of glass so we threw it away. Yayy!!!!!!
So that was all fine. Open a can, fry up some stuff, broil some other stuff and you have yourself a traditional English feast! I had a feeling that a little more effort could turn this soggy spread into something truly special. Grisha (aka Tomatoface) showed me way when I took him up on his offer to cook me English breakfast this past Sunday.


You see, olive oil, s&p shouldn’t be the name of game. The name of the game should be bacon fat… rendered in a cast iron skillet. Better, two cast iron skillets going at once (Caro and I each have one)! Grisha’s never actually had a traditional English breakfast, but his take on it was a great success. He pretty much just added bacon or bacon fat to everything, used cast iron instead of the oven, and added some delicious breakfast potatoes to the spread (in lieu of mushrooms and black pudding). Maybe that’s why there’s no English breakfast to be had around here… because chefs know, as Grisha knows, that we would all rather eat bacon and leek homefries than black pudding. Amirite?




Tomatofacedown in that bacon fat fuck yeah!

Frying the tomatoes in the cast iron skillet blackened them beautifully.

Everyone at our table scarfed down their food. I nearly cleaned my plate in spite of the fact that I was recovering from the stomach flu. Yes, I was shoving English breakfast down my piehole in between bouts of explosive diarrhea, running back and forth from the kitchen to the toilet like a real champ. That’s just how dedicated I am to English breakers, and that’s just how good it was.




































